BOF/CORS rockered skis ?

[krazzy legs]

Hi,guys

The new head mya 3 ski is 20% rocker @ tip & 80% camber I want to put on a pair of knee bindings. With the rocker added how do I proceed with finding where my ball of foot should be positioned on running surface of the ski or any ski with rocker?

Should I take 100% camber ski in the same length & have the ball of foot the same distance from the start of the running surface on the cambered ski. The thing is I wanted a tight arcing ski & it comes in a 142cm & I only have a 145cm to compare so I might be off a little.

What do you think would cut a tighter arc ? The head mya 3 in a 142 with a radius of 8.5 or head isl 150cm with a 9.4M radius? When medal is added the torsional stiffness increases so even though the isl has a larger turning radius it might cut a tighter arc ? thoughts

Thanks, guys

[krazzy legs]

I miss worded previous post I should have stated that I would be taking measurments from the back of a cambered ski compareing it to a ski with the rocker for positioning ball of foot on ski. It just seams to me with 20% rocker & I don't know if that 20% is precise or rounded off would position me to far back on the ski if I went with BOF on CORS. IAM 5FT 9 going with that short of ski to cut a tighter arc I don't want to be off much with binding positioning. I would like to mount bindings without experimenting of best position.

[jbotti]

Don't the Mya 3's come with Head PRD Bindings/ If so they are totally adjustable. If you have the PRD bindings mount them right on the line and then you can move that binding 3-4 cm forwrad and or back to find the right spot.

[HighAngles]

Don't the Mya 3's come with Head PRD Bindings/ If so they are totally adjustable. If you have the PRD bindings mount them right on the line and then you can move that binding 3-4 cm forwrad and or back to find the right spot.

Ding, ding, ding - we have a winner.

[krazzy legs]

Thanks guys

I live kinda far from a shop that can mount the safer knee bindings but would be near the shop before skiing starts for the year in my area. Would have liked to have mounted the knee bindings before I started using the maya 3 that do come with bindings. From past experience the manufactures mark is not the best position although I have no experience with head skis in regards to binding position.

[theorist]

I was discussing this general issue with a friend that is the equipment manager for a ski shop that's been doing Campbell Dynamic Balancing for years. He said that, with the rockered skis, it seems to be too tricky to predict the optimum balance point. Basically, the problem with tip rocker is that the effective running length in front of the foot increases when you move from firm to 3D snow, thus shifting the effective balance point forward (which, I suppose, may be one additional reason people like rockered skis in soft snow -- for a fixed binding position, as the balance point shifts forward, you become more rearward relative to it). Plus you've got all sorts of strange flex patterns and sidecuts thrown into the mix, which further confuses matters vs. traditional cambered skis*. That's why it's unfortunate you can't follow jbotti's advice and determine the proper mount point empirically. [*Though even some cambered skis -- like the Atomic Beta Race's from ~2000 -- didn't conform well to the Campbell balance point; I balanced out at 8 cm, yet I still skied my Atomics at the manufacturer's mark which, IIRC, was ~5cm -- this in spite of the fact that I could have moved forward with the adjustable Atomic bindings.]

[jbotti]

I personally just leave adjustable bindings on most of my skis. Having said that one can thrown on an adjustable binding and play with it for several days in a variety of conditions and dial in the best mount point for the ski. Then replace/re- drill with a non adjustable binding (the Knee binding).

On the money points by Theorist's friend.

[krazzy legs]

I think I will experiment with binding position before mounting. What is the best method for dialing in optimal position ?

[theorist]

I think I will experiment with binding position before mounting. What is the best method for dialing in optimal position ?

As we tried to explain, for a rockered ski there may not be a good one, though you might want to read through this thread on Epic, which I suspect will end up reinforcing the latter view: http://www.epicski.com/t/97891/bof-moun ... st-century.

Here's an alternative approach, suggested to me last season by KneeBinding:

"For fore-aft mounting points, one idea is “Quiver Killers.”  These are stainless steel inserts that install permanently in the ski.  Quite a few of our shops have mounted KneeBindings with Quiver Killers in a couple of positions, thereby making it possible to handle a range of boot sole lengths on a single ski.  You could do the same for moving the entire binding forward or backward. "

You could do one mount at the manufacturer's point, and then another either forward or back, depending on which way you think you'd be more likely to want to move. What I don't know is how much separation is needed between mount points in order not to have the hole patterns interfere. If your shop can't tell you, get in touch with KneeBinding.

[kirtland]

Quiver killers available here.
http://www.quiverkiller.com/html/products.html

I use this Brand, available here. Information is on the site
http://www.bindingfreedom.com/Supplies_c4.htm

[krazzy legs]

As we tried to explain, for a rockered ski there may not be a good one, though you might want to read through this thread .

Hi theorists

Since growth & decay are based on a tapestry of fibonnacci relationships. I think the answer to building the best ski is to build one based on a tapestry of fib relationships that takes into account the growth & decay of a turn. Perhaps when the ski is flexed it would be best to bend based on the golden ratio to form the golden spiral ?