It's a good start, looks forced though. There is some juicing (pushing) to finish the turns. Basically there is not enough tipping for that radius so you are having to push for directional change. This also contributes to the scissoring. The temptation to push becomes greater as you lose speed so you will need to learn to choose a speed and radius thats appropriate for your current tipping ability. Keep it pure, tipping only is what we are going for. When you do self-MA look for smooth turns and transitions, if it looks jerky you are pushing.
Sorry to hear about your injury...get well soon. That hose clamp is definitely a hazard if its not on just right, I have lost the carver more than once. In the end I just put of bunch of screws into the toe lug to prevent the clamp from slipping off.
Is there any reason why the design couldn't be adapted to use regular bindings? I'm planning to make my own and have a spare pair of bindings so thought I'd use those. I realize it will make the skates a bit longer fore and aft to accommodate but i don't really see that as a major issue, I'll still keep the wheels at the same pitches. This would at least prevent the binding coming off which you both seem to have had issues with?
Can you provide me with the part number for the wheels you got from the supplier listed on the parts list. I went on the website for the wheels and the number did not come up. Working on building two pairs this spring.
I would think that the hardest part of mounting either ski blade bindings (does anyone have a source for them as they sound like the best option) or regular bindings would be finding the right kind of hardware for the actual mounting. Obviously, the screws that are typically used for mounting to skis are not a good idea. And since it looks like the frame is made from aluminum, I would be hesitant to tap/thread the aluminum without someone with an engineering background running some calculations to make sure the metal would support the force. The solution I would lean toward would be nut/bolt/lock washer, but finding a bolt that both fits down in binding holes and can be easily tightened (a lot of bolts of that size have hex heads that would be hard to hold still while tightening) could take a bit of work.
The main problem of fitting a ski binding I've realised is not the method of fixing but that that you end up with a much higher mounting position. Even with with a none system binding you end up being at least another 10mm off the ground and you are already very much higher off the ground than with normal skis of course. Add to that the mounting holes on ski bindings straddle the square tube and the bolts come down over the wheels so you have to add a bit of height for clearing the screws. probably a 5mm thick plate with tapped holes will be needed to fix onto the square tube first to then tap holes for screws to secure the bindings. So I think I worked out with the Marker Squire bindings that I was thinking of using I would be about 12mm (1/2") higher off the ground than with the Harb design.
If anyone is interested, I am designing a set of fully 3-d printable cavers based on the comp model with an integrated binding solution. Unfortunately this would be limited to rigs capable of printing high temperature engineering grade materials so not super accessible. I am still waiting for my plastic to come in, but I have ran the model through some stress simulations and it holds up very well. I'll post the finished product when I'm done.