MA request for noobSkier

Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Marc » Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:30 pm

Hi noobSkier,

to me (not an expert) it looks like you could benefit from tipping in your boots some, that is if you have set your cuff aligment neutral to your tibia. Try put a (credit) card between your boot and heel bindinding on the little toe side. (looking at ankle/cuff at apex and the converging ski tips). The releasing might improve, see next.

Its difficult for me to comment on your movements and finding your SMIM because you ski with a lot of momentum that hides any eventual unhelpful movements from my untrained eyes. But if I would try anyway I would say that the first part of your body that start into the turn is not your feet. Its your upper body. (looking at https://youtu.be/hIO7D4TIQfo). So practice some slooow releases, with a stop between thus no momentum, and focus on (un)tipping the feet.
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby mardale » Wed Mar 01, 2017 9:51 pm

First question to ask there:

1. Does the release start by flexing the outside leg?

My answer would be: no. Very visible in video 4 - you release with an extension of the outside leg.

Also, the skis are way too close - touching in fact: the inside ski often rides on top of the other one. That focus also drags the inside hip lower and doesn't allow you to lift that inside hip there, for good CB.

Power releases help with all of those a lot.

Good tipping efforts, they're a sliver too late though, with that push-off. The push is less visible in video 5 - don't know if you worked on it at all.
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby DougD » Thu Mar 02, 2017 5:02 am

+1 to Mardale's post
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby noobSkier » Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:41 am

You guys are totally right. I think the new stance ski extension was always there to some extent, but the conditions in my latest videos really showed it for what it was.
mardale wrote:Good tipping efforts, they're a sliver too late though, with that push-off. The push is less visible in video 5 - don't know if you worked on it at all.

I didn't work on it all for the next video, so it seems to point to the fact that it rears its ugly head when I'm more off balance or having difficulty with the conditions. Either way it's unacceptable and now I'm going to consciously work on it. Exercise suggestions are welcome!

Also, please feel free to chime in my my alignment situation!
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Max_501 » Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:07 am

noobSkier wrote:Also, please feel free to chime in my my alignment situation!


What are you using for footbeds?
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby marsound » Thu Mar 02, 2017 2:32 pm

noobSkier wrote:You guys are totally right. I think the new stance ski extension was always there to some extent, but the conditions in my latest videos really showed it for what it was.
Exercise suggestions are welcome!


Double pole drag, and this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEqXCQLMCBg
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby noobSkier » Thu Mar 02, 2017 4:15 pm

Max_501 wrote:
noobSkier wrote:Also, please feel free to chime in my my alignment situation!


What are you using for footbeds?

Im using off-the-shelf Birkenstock "Birkosport" footbeds. I found them to be flexible and supportive. I can actually compress the arch flat by applying some force, which I believe is one of HH's criteria. Assuming the footbed's aren't hindering my movement, do you see anything that could be corrected with HSS alignment plates?
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Max_501 » Thu Mar 02, 2017 5:43 pm

noobSkier wrote:Im using off-the-shelf Birkenstock "Birkosport" footbeds. I found them to be flexible and supportive. I can actually compress the arch flat by applying some force, which I believe is one of HH's criteria. Assuming the footbed's aren't hindering my movement, do you see anything that could be corrected with HSS alignment plates?


See this HH blog post: Foot and ski boot alignment isn't an accessary you can "afford" to ignore.
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Marc » Fri Mar 03, 2017 5:37 am

Birko Sport: https://goo.gl/images/HEZrh8. The cork part in this two part insole is probably to stiff under the arch and/or the heel. Looks like it might lock out your ankle.

My suggestion above about putting a credit card on the outside was based on my (false) assumtion you had no or "normal" insoles. I'm still learning. :)
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby noobSkier » Fri Mar 03, 2017 1:50 pm

Max_501 wrote:
noobSkier wrote:Im using off-the-shelf Birkenstock "Birkosport" footbeds. I found them to be flexible and supportive. I can actually compress the arch flat by applying some force, which I believe is one of HH's criteria. Assuming the footbed's aren't hindering my movement, do you see anything that could be corrected with HSS alignment plates?


See this HH blog post: Foot and ski boot alignment isn't an accessary you can "afford" to ignore.


Thanks for the link. I am planning on coming down for a camp next season and getting my alignment checked out while I'm there. Im definitely looking forward to it!

Marc wrote:Birko Sport: https://goo.gl/images/HEZrh8. The cork part in this two part insole is probably to stiff under the arch and/or the heel. Looks like it might lock out your ankle.

My suggestion above about putting a credit card on the outside was based on my (false) assumtion you had no or "normal" insoles. I'm still learning. :)


You know, these footbeds are weird. Its cork, but they are very rubbery and super flexible. I have no problems everting inside the boot. Of course they arn't custom and don't solve my specific issues, but Im waiting for when I can get to HSS before I start spending more money on my gear.

Heres a video taken this morning. Trying some linked two-footed releases with focus on flexing to release. My feeling with these was a greater sense of balance and a feeling that the skis were coming around easier; i don't know if the video confirms this. I can't figure out why, but even when i purposefully try to keep my feet apart, they seem to always creep back together...any thoughts? All comments are welcome!

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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Marc » Fri Mar 03, 2017 3:39 pm

noobSkier wrote: I can't figure out why, but even when i purposefully try to keep my feet apart, they seem to always creep back together...any thoughts?
I had this problem and got it fixed with sole canting at a Harb camp. But first I got Harb fotbeds to "normalize" my over-pronating feet. You can try the credit card canting I mentioned in a previous post. But ski slow as it can affect the binding release mechanism. So this is only a temporary experimentation!

But first: Is your boot cuff neutral to your tibia, when standing in your boots without liner on your footbeds. If not fix that first.

You can put up video of insole with canting; without insole; without insole but with canting.

I'm still not an alignment expert, as Max is, therefore the following quote as a disclaimer:

h.harb wrote:The best interim method for canting is to raise (by backing out the screws and sliding material under the binding) one side of the heel piece of the binding and place credit card strips, between the binding and the ski).
If your canting needs are the thickness of two or less credit cards thick (stacked one top of the other) . This comes to about 1 to 1 ½ degrees of canting. Cut to size with scissors, credit card type plastic strips ½ inch wide, 2 inches long, . The screws in most bindings are long enough for this installation. You can get longer screws from us, if you send us an identical screw to what you have presently in every binding hole. The longer screws need only be placed on the side you are raising. If you know the model of binding and year, we can probably figure out the right length and send them to you.

We do not recommend this as a permanent canting solution, as it requires more expertise than most skiers have and you have the risk of not unscrewing and re-screwing the bindings properly. It should be done toe and heel and this process gets complicated. The bindings afterward have to be checked for release values by an authorized and accredited ski shop.

Stacking Duct tape is a very dangerous way to experiment, as it’s sticky and it affects binding releases. It is also horribly inaccurate, as it changes thickness with compression and it’s hard to correlate to angles. You can for better experimenting temporarily place an alignment shim between the heel of boot and the heel piece of the binding, right at the spot where the heel of the boot strikes the binding plate. We do this to test alignment. We do it in a safe environment with supervision of the coach. We have never had a problem with release or binding malfunction, but I don’t recommend it if you are not knowledgeable about your canting.

A wrong placed shim or duct tape can negatively influence movement. If you have a problem with movement, balance or getting the ski on edge, due to or with the temporary set up, you may not be able to control your turns. We know the limitations and we know how to control the situation, if you don’t, you could cause yourself an accident.

We do our canting with permanently installed, angled, boot sole plates (see our web site or thread on this forum) these plates are professionally installed on boots and with them in place, you can still make fine tuning adjustments.

Many skiers get themselves into a real quandary about their skiing when experimenting with their own canting. The reason for this is that any change may feel good initially, even incorrect changes often feel good.

Some well meaning (even feeling good), but improperly placed canting changes may actually have a detriment overall affect on skiing performance. There are many factors and reasons for this. Some degrees of canting work and feel good on certain types of snow but are bad on other snow conditions. A change on one side may feel great at first, but has a negative affect on the other side.

Over aggressive canting, to get more edge, always feels good, as it gives the impression of more edge grip, but makes it harder to tip “farther” (it may reduce your tipping ability on the stance ski, big toe side). Raising the big toe side may make it easier to tip to the little toe, but it also creates more resistance for tipping toward the big toe edge; therefore tipping becomes more difficult.

Basically, it’s not a good idea to experiment on your own. The benefits more than ever, are outweighed by the percentage frustration realized. :(
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Max_501 » Sat Mar 04, 2017 6:39 am

Marc wrote:to me (not an expert) it looks like you could benefit from tipping in your boots some...


Watch the movement of the knee in this video. Do you still think this skier should tip the boots in?

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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby DougD » Sat Mar 04, 2017 8:15 am

Regarding your latest video, the extension is reduced but still there. I had the same problem. Showed up clearly in videos at camp. It kept creeping back in no matter how hard I tried.

Diana and Walter ordered the following:
NO pole plants allowed
Ski only using the pole drag drill until cured
Work hard on Super Phantom (holding LTE balance b4 tipping)

I've done this every ski day since. It has helped... a lot.

P. S. Ski s-l-o-w-e-r while you're retraining your movements. Momentum will reinforce old habits.
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Max_501 » Sat Mar 04, 2017 8:27 am

DougD wrote:I had the same problem.


Are you sure you had the same problem? Watch the video again and focus on the flexing. Does this skier flex? If so, when does the flexion happen? When should it happen? What movement is missing?
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Re: MA request for noobSkier

Postby Marc » Sat Mar 04, 2017 3:31 pm

Max_501 wrote: Watch the movement of the knee in this video. Do you still think this skier should tip the boots in?


The knee is already well inside. So no extra tipping in then. :oops:
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